How to Travel to Cuba Without a License

Cuba is an amazing country with an amazing history of music, wonderful people, and beautiful beaches and cities. It is unfortunate Americans can’t travel there easily. This is a guide on how to travel there without a visa issued by the United States (which is what I did). Of course there are ways to do it legally but it takes more time, money, and resources to make that happen. We can only hope this administration will open up travel to Cuba but until then it is a great adventure to travel there “illegally.”

A Little Background about Cuba

It is legal to travel to Cuba but it is illegal to spend money there which is due to the trade embargo. The US State Department will allow anyone to travel there legally but you will need to fall into certain categories such as a journalists or education to name a couple. This means you will need to apply for a license and be pre-approved for travel to Cuba. Most of us wouldn’t qualify for this which is why thousands of people every year travel to Cuba illegally from the US.

More of my Favorite Travel Photos from Cuba

More of my Favorite Travel Photos from Cuba

People-to-people tours are becoming very popular and basically allow you to skirt around the travel laws. They are tour companies that get you into Cuba for an organized tour with an agenda. There are a few set things and they arrange the flights and hotel. This allows anyone to side step the embargo. There are plenty of these companies online and they are not cheap. This guide will teach you how to do it without a visa issued by the US.

How to Travel to Cuba from the US Without a License

1. Fly through another country such as Canada or Mexico. I recommend Mexico since flights from Cancun are cheaper and quick. You could also fly from any other Central American country or somewhere else in the Caribbean. Some people have reported being questioned upon reentry through Canada as an American citizen. Those chances are low and Mexico was a cheaper and more direct option for my travel. Others use Panama City, Panama as the third party entry point but just do whatever works best for your itinerary.

2. Purchase a flight to Havana from the US. Keep in mind sites such as Kayak and Orbitz will NOT have flights to Cuba. Many airlines will fly there such as AeroMexico and Cubana Air. There is no possible way to book a commercial flight to Cuba at this time with online booking agents in the United States. All flights through organized tours are arranged through third party tour operators. Even if you have a legal visa for travel, Kayak will still now show you results for flights to Cuba.

Travel Hacking Tips

I flew the first leg of my trip to Cuba for free using miles. I flew into Cancun before departing to Cuba a few hours later.

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However, you can book a flight online with non-US airlines.

CubaJet.com is a great place to start looking for flights. They booked me on Cubana and the customer service was great even when my flight was rescheduled.

 

Cubana Air
Cubana Air

Flights range from $275-375 roundtrip from Cancun. Not cheap for a 1 hour flight but it’s worth it, trust me.

3. Before you leave the airport pre-purchase your Cuban visa. This ran me $25 at the Cancun airport and was easy to setup. Give yourself an extra 30 minutes to get this on arrival or between flights. There is a counter at most airports where these can be purchased before you head to Cuba.

4. Prebook your accommodation for Cuba. Some immigration officers in Cuba will ask where you are staying and you will have to fill it out on your customs sheet anyway so book ahead of time. If you want to save some money and have a more authentic stay book with a Casa Particular. They are private rooms in Cuban families homes and will run you $25-35/night.

Many forums will say Casas are not acceptable housing for visitors but this is not the case. I did not pre-book a hotel and had no issues at immigration. Just be honest with the officer. They want Americans to come and there is no need to hide it. They are going to see your passport anyway :)

See my guide for where to stay and how to book a casa particular.

Note: Some Casas will arrange an airport pickup if you ask. This makes life easier on arrival and will run you $20-25 USD to get downtown Havana.

Transportation in Havana on arrival. He spelled my name wrong but close enough.
Transportation in Havana on arrival. He spelled my name wrong but close enough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 





 

5. Cuban Immigration and customs is pretty straight forward. They may ask where you are staying, how long, and why. They are happy to welcome Americans so no need to lie. They will NOT stamp your passport so don’t worry. They will stamp your visa so don’t lose the other half they give to you for your exit.

They actually did not stamp mine correctly on the way in and when I departed it took about 30 extra minutes for them to sort it out. There were no issues of course and honesty is key here.

Official forms to fill out for customs and immigration in Cuba
Official forms to fill out for customs and immigration in Cuba

6. Bring a lot of cash. Your credit cards will not work anywhere in Cuba. If you run out of money it will not be an enjoyable experience. Plan your expenses well and then bring more on top of that. You want to be prepared. There are two currencies in Cuba, the Cuban convertible peso, for tourists, and the peso, for the Cubans. You will use the convertible (CUC) everywhere in Cuba so no need to exchange money for the Cuban peso unless you want to collect some unique currency (which I did to bring home).

It is very easy to exchange your cash but don’t expect a good rate. Basically the Cuban convertible is about 1:1 with the USD but there are fees to exchange it on top of the exchange fee. A nice hotel in town is an easy place to convert the cash just don’t expect a great rate. Some people recommend exchanging your USD to Euros before you leave to get a better rate. That is up to you but was not a concern for me.

7. Leaving Cuba. Don’t forget the other half of your visa when you return to the airport. Just keep in in the pages of your passport for safe keeping. They will stamp it and take it on the way out of the country.

It is just like any other international flight so no need to worry. Two hours prior to take off is plenty of time. They forced me to check my carry-on but was able to bring my backpack on the plane. Just be sure to take all valuables out of your luggage if you are forced to check your bag.

8. Reentering the US. Remember you are not the first or the last person to travel to Cuba without a license. Thousands of people do it every year. Do NOT list Cuba on the “countries I have visited” part of the immigration form in the US. And when the immigration officer asks just say Mexico or whichever country you just came from.

Now, I do not recommend lying here but when they ask, “where have you been?” you can honestly say Mexico. Do not include Cuba. Some people have reported on forums they mentioned Cuba and had no issues but I do not recommend this. It is possible to still be fined heavily for traveling there and there may be additional questioning if you mention your trip to Cuba.

This was a much more straight forward process than I imagined and 100% worth it. I will return again some day with or without a license from the US.

Other Notes

The Mexican Death Stamp

If you read enough on the forums you may hear about the “Mexican death stamp.” This applies to any third party country but was named for Mexico since it is a common departure country for Cuba. This process can make anyone a bit nervous until you realize you have nothing to worry about.

Here is how it works:

When you fly into Mexico you receive an entry stamp in your passport as you would in most countries. You then proceed to Cuba where you get no stamps at all. You then fly back to Mexico and receive another entry stamp. This means you now have two entry stamps into one country(Mexico) with no exit/entries to any other country. If you were to line up the dates of the stamps in your passport it would be clear you were somewhere for a period of time with no record of it. A curious US immigration officer may notice this or question it but most likely will not care at all. Seems like this could be a problem right?

My Experience:

I read on most of the forums when I was doing research that this was a non-issue but just based on the name of the it I was slightly concerned. Some suggested bribing the Mexican officer with a $20 and politely asking for no stamp but I didn’t take that route.

When I first entered Mexico I asked in Spanish for the officer not to stamp my passport at all and failed. My Spanish is ok but the officer could not have cared less and stamped where he pleased.

I then tried again when I entered the second time. This time he responded in English that he has to stamp it by law. Of course I knew this, but so many border officials around the world will look the other way and have for me in the past. I then asked if he could please stamp a different page from the first stamp to separate the two. The officer nodded (what seemed like a yes) but put the stamp right next to the first one (just doing his job I guess).

My passport was 100% full with new pages sewn in. I was hoping a couple stamps mixed in with all the other stamps would be hard to notice. He found one of my brand new pages I just put in and put them side by side.

At US immigration in Atlanta I didn’t mention Cuba or write it on my form at all. The officer looked at the stamps and said welcome back. There you go. Don’t worry about it. It was like any other return home. Where did you go? How long were you there? Thank you, stamp, move on.

A way around the US checkpoint

The US is rolling out the Trusted Traveler Program to more US cities this year. In Atlanta, had I applied for this, I could’ve bypassed some of this interaction all together. This will cost you $100 to sign-up and you must pass a screening process but if this is something you plan to apply for anyway it is great for return travel from Cuba. Just be sure to make your connection that has Trusted Traveler.

What can you bring home from Cuba?

If you go down as part of a people-to-people tour or any other legal way you are permitted to bring home art, music, and anything along those lines. You cannot bring back Havana Club Rum and Cigars. Chances of getting searched are low when you get back to the US but if you are trying to bury the evidence don’t bring back anything at all. This means currency, paperwork, ticket stubs, maps, guide books, or anything else that proves you went there.

However, I brought a few things with the help from some friends in Mexico. I always bring home currency and since Cuba has two currencies I couldn’t leave it behind. Along with some cigars and some artwork I picked up in town. All small enough to not raise any alarm entering the US but the risk is up to you. I don’t recommend it.

Cuban contraband
Cuban contraband

What to Remember For Your First Trip

Relax. Thousands of people travel to Cuba every year illegally and have no issues at all. There are reports of people being fined up to $10,000 or more or lesser fines of $2,500. This is rare and I wouldn’t worry about a fine. Also, if you don’t speak Spanish make sure your Casa Particular owner speaks English or you may find life difficult in Cuba. All of the major hotels will speak English but be sure to establish communication in English with your Casa before you leave. This way when you arrive you won’t have any communication problems. My casa owner spoke 100% Spanish but that just made it more fun and allowed me to practice my Spanish.

Legal Travel to Cuba

There is a lot more information about this readily available online. Essentially you need a “people-to-people” license issued from the US. You can go with tour companies or in groups depending on what your travel is for. Journalism, educational and religions purposes are just a few of the ways you can gain entry through application. The benefit of this is you can leave on a chartered jet from a few different US airports. These flights are off limits to ordinary people who don’t have a license.

The negative side of these tour groups is they are usually more expensive and a lot more structured.

Go to Cuba before the US invades (with tourists) and have fun! Drink where Hemingway sat, watch a Cuban béisbol game, and smoke cigars on the Malecón! It is a beautiful country and now one of my favorites. It is not to be missed!

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Other Resources

Triphackr Travel Hacking Resources

My Huffington Post on Cuba

My Guide to Havana

Triphackr Travel Photos

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Comments

Ryan
Reply

In regards to max expenses between legal vs illegal travel to Cuba. If you take into account the time value and cost of having to travel to a different country before flying to Cuba / the risks of traveling with only cash/ and the ages of the general demographic that’s looking to travel there… would you say that maybe trade off might be a little more favorable to traveling legally?

Clint Johnston
Reply

Thats a great question. In my experience I used miles to get to Cancun (which is generally an affordable flight anyway) and from there flew over for less than $300 RT. I had no time restrictions in Cuba and was able to stay with a Cuban family which is also very cheap. If you were to take the people to people tour, which is gaining popularity, you have a more fixed schedule and limited time in the country. P2P tours usually start at $1000 and go up from there. Personally, I would choose the “illegal” way since you have more freedom and I think could spend less money over a longer period of time with careful planning. However, it all depends on what you are looking to do there and your comfort level.

F. Olmo-Pandiella
Reply

I will love to go to Cuba, my grand parents are (ware) from la Havana, I born in Spain, became (mistake number one) US citizen, would love to go, I know a Cuban family (sure could stay with them) would rather do it legally.
Question: Is religious reason good for the Department of Treasure?
Can I get a ‘visa’ or ‘permit’ under that category?
any suggestion are welcome

olmo47

Clint
Reply

There are a lot of great legal options with people-to-people tours. You can google these to find some options. If you want to go without a tour then you will need a license as you mentioned. You can travel there for religious reasons but it is not as simple as just saying that. You will need to apply and it can be difficult for them to accept. Another option is a “general license” but you will still need to prove why you are going for a valid reason. You can apply with OFAC and see if you can get a license the legal way. Go to their site here and it will give you more information on how to apply. Good luck with your trip!

Leon
Reply

Great post! I’m considering going to visit Cuba this month and your post really covered all my concerns. Much appreciated! By the way what would you say is a cant miss experience there?

Judy Lagoa
Reply

Hello! I just stumbled across your post while researching and wanted to ask you a question… I am not from the US but from Germany and I have to write a paper on the US/Cuba travel restrictions. Weren’t the travel restrictions put in place because of political reasons such as not wanting to support the Cuban regime? Is it not unethical to travel there illegally just to please oneself’s desire for travel, not particularly caring for the Cuban people’s situation in the long run or at all? I am not asking this to offend you but often the information to be found online is very… one-sided and I was hoping you had a different point of view on this and could offer me a new insight! I would really appreciate it if you took the time to reply!

Clint
Reply

Hi Judy, great question. Well this ban been in place since Fidel came to power in 1960. And yet 400,000 Americans traveled there last year alone. The US is second behind Canada in visitors to Cuba. Travel has always been permitted to Americans who applied as journalists, academics, those with family members on the island and government officials. And now the people-to-people tours allow all americans to travel there with these programs. Traveling there illegally is no different than traveling there on one of these tours except that you have more freedom and lower costs. You may even help more locals by staying in homestays and not the mega-resorts Canadians and Europeans fly to every year.

In my opinion is not selfish to travel to a country like Cuba out of curiosity for travel and simply due to an embargo most Americans want lifted. You could make a case for countries all over the world that we could not travel to. Should we also avoid China based on their human rights record, Saudi Arabia on their views towards women? There are problems are found all all over the world. Maybe the best way to make a change is to bring more attention to the problem by exposing ourselves to it.

Hopefully that helps and feel free to ask me anything else. Thanks

Kelly
Reply

Thanks for this helpful article. What would you have said to Immigration if they asked you why you had 2 Mexican departure stamps?

Kelly
Reply

I’m sorry – I meant to say two Mexican ARRIVAL stamps. Not departure.

Clint
Reply

I would probably have been honest with them. I have read of people who were completely honest and told them they went and had no issues. However, you could be stopped for questioning or even face fines. That said, thousands of Americans travel to Cuba like this every year so the risk is low.

Jhorner
Reply

I read this and all is good, however, there is one more thing. I was born in Cuba. I am an American citizen. My passport has Cuba as my place of birth. Is there any danger of Cuba not letting me out? Or any other things I should worry abnout?

Clint
Reply

You can legally go to Cuba to visit family. You would qualify for a license and wouldn’t need to travel there illegally. It states, “a person with family in Cuba can visit their family for an unrestricted period of time” and you can read more about that here. Hopefully that helps and good luck.

jhorner
Reply

Clint,
No family, I was born from Americans working overseas.

Clint
Reply

Ok, misunderstood sorry. That is a bit more complicated I suppose. I would have to look into this more but since you were born to Americans overseas I don’t think you would have issues. However, it only takes one confused immigration officer to pull you aside in Cuba. I would inquire with a people-to-people tour. Even if you do not intend to use their legal services simply explain your situation and they should be able to help.

Ken
Reply

Thanks for the great article, Clint.

I’m a U.S. citizen now living in Korea. Recently been planning to fly from Seoul to LA to Mexico City to Havana (that’s the fastest way!). I’ve had the same concerns as you all along, whether to travel there with or without a license, and searched all possible options. But quite honestly, the way to get the license is way too complicated, and takes too much time to take risk for.

A couple of questions on going to Cuba from Mexico City (although I read you went through Cancun, I was wondering if you could shed some light).
1. Do they have U.S. customs preclearance at MEX airport? Based on my research, most likely there ISN’T one.
2. Can you buy your travel visa directly from MEX airport?

Thanks for lifting worries of so many of us.

Regards,
Ken

Clint
Reply

Thanks, Ken.

I agree, acquiring a license is difficult and most of us would not qualify for them anyway meaning we would have to pay for the overpriced people-to-people tour (only other legal option) to get in unless of course you plan to go in from Mexico City as planned.

I don’t think Mexico City has preclearance based on my research either.

However, you should be able to buy the visa on arrival to MEX. That shouldn’t be a problem. Just ask your airline at check-in and they can help you out.

But sounds like a great trip and is is definitely worth it. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Arya
Reply

Thanks for all your insightful information. It has been great help planning out a trip to go this summer. I have become comfortable with the situations explained by you and other blogs ive read across the internet. My only issue is I’m not sure how to go about going to Cancun and immediately leaving to Cuba. I will most likely go on one of the daily Cubana flights that leave at around 1:10 PM each day and will surely buy my ticket in advance through one of the sites you mentioned. I would fly straight to Cancun (arriving on a flight somewhere between 10am to 12pm. My question for you is would this be enough time to transfer flights within Cancuns international airport?? I want to spend a few days in Cancun on my way back, but want to immediately go to Cuba on arrival. Would it be a better idea to spend at least a day in Cancun in case of a possible flight delay?? I have read on some places the Cubana flight to Havana is almost always delayed, so if I get in on a flight that arrives in Cancun at 10am i should have ample time to catch my flight, buy a visa from the airline, etc. Another question, would it be smart to only bring a carry on for quick transport from flight to flight?? sorry i am asking so much, any info and knowledge is appreciated!!

Clint
Reply

There is always a chance your first flight is delayed and I would recommend at least two hours between flights. You will have to go through customs in Mexico and probably switch terminals so the more time the better. If you arrived at 10am you shouldn’t have any issues catching a 1:10PM flight that same day. Even at 11AM you should be ok but any delays on the first flight could really cut it close. Three hours is probably best between flights if you want to be safe. I think you should be fine with a same day departure to Cuba when you arrive in Cancun. Just be sure to try to get in as early as possible.

I only brought carry-ons into Mexico which will save a bit of time but not too much. The longest wait is going through immigration and getting to the front of the line. That line has taken me 45 mins in many cases but as little as 15 mins other times. Once you pick up your luggage to go through customs it is pretty fast. However, the Cancun airport has the red light/green light button that you press when you leave. The rare red light simply means they search all of your luggage and it will add another 5-10 mins to your transfer time. Depending what terminal you arrive in it may take about 15 mins to get to the other terminal. I always recommend carrying on your luggage, however Cubana forced me to check a very small carry on and only allowed my backpack on the flight.

Good luck and feel free to ask any other questions!

Ken
Reply

Hey there Clint.

Thanks for the reply and additional insight.

I seem to need your opinion once again:
What do you think about flying to Havana from somewhere that DOES have US preclearance? Like Nassau (Bahamas) for example. Would they grill you with questions? How would you answer them? Would you avoid going via such place at all?

Thanks always, and hope you have some meaningful trips this year as well.

Ken

Clint
Reply

Hey Ken,

Third party countries really don’t have an interest in where you travel as an American. However, it is always best to eliminate additional encounters with officials. I do not think you would be grilled with questions but I am only speculating. In the research I have done the only immigration officer you should worry about at all is the first one you meet in the US and even then they don’t ask many questions. The questions are always basic no matter where you are returning from and you shouldn’t expect it to be a much different experience returning from Cuba. Hope the helps.

Ellen
Reply

Hi Clint,

Thanks for the great info. I am planning to go to Cuba with a friend for her birthday from May 20 – May 25 (next month). We have reservations to Cancun as well as a place to stay in Havana. I planned my flight around getting to and from Cancun based on the timing of the Cubana flights, leaving a lot of time inbetween. I am still trying to reserve the flight from Cancun to Havana on Cubana Airlines and on their info page, you have to put your passport number. I’m nervous about doing this so I haven’t reserved yet. Do you think it’s a problem to write down our passport numbers? Also, I was just gonna do it on line on their website. Do you know if it will be ok to do it that way and pay with a U.S. credit card? I contacted a travel agency and it’s more expensive (of course) to go through them. Thanks a lot. Any info would be appreciated since I want to get the Mexico – Havana flight secured.

Clint
Reply

Hi Ellen,

I booked my flight directly through Cubana Air on their site as well. I used all of my real info when booking the flight without any issues. I also used a US credit card without any problems. You could work around the US credit card problem by using a prepaid card under another name (a friend or family perhaps) but I don’t think it is necessary.

I would recommend simply booking with your info and card. If that makes you feel uncomfortable simply use a friends card, who is not traveling, and book with their card. You could always order a prepaid card card and use that but I wouldn’t stress about it too much.

Feel free to email me with any follow up questions and have a great trip!

Coleen
Reply

Great information! I was wondering if you have to worry about any repercussions about traveling to Cuba after you’ve returned to the US without incident. What I mean is that you’re posting an article stating that you, an American citizen, traveled recently to Cuba and have posted pictures proving it. Is it possible to be charged/fined after the fact based on a blog post/ pictures on the internet?

I’m contemplating going to Cuba in August and while I can leave pictures off the internet, I do like to share travel photos with friends.

Clint
Reply

Hi Coleen, I haven’t had any issues with my travel to Cuba. Americans can legally travel to Cuba if they choose to pay for a people-to-people tour. If you were to travel there illegally and then post photos from your trip when you return it would probably be difficult to determine how you traveled there simply by the photos. If you are just sharing them online with family and friends I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

It is definitely worth the effort and if you don’t feel comfortable going illegally there are legal options you can explore.

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